Tutorial: James

I had a tutorial with James today where I got to show my first creative samples. He seemed impressed with my cubed samples and could see a lot of potential with my subject of working, saying that they are "visually playful". I agreed with him as we both could see them working while placing them upon a body form. On the other hand we also discussed about what I was to make with them, whether I need to make a garment or not. I personally have my mind set on making a garment piece over something adorning, but it is something i have considered and may reconsider on my next project.

Fabric Cubes

I've been browsing through the pattern magic books looking for some inspiration and techniques for forms within fabric. The first one I wanted to try was to make 'Lumps and Bumps' where they make fabric cubes come out from a flat surface. To make the pattern for this it works like making paper nets. I made mine with three pieces. I had one long piece that was to form the surface and would go up a side over the top and back down. Other two pieces formed the other two side pieces and most of the flat surface. I really liked my little lonely square sticking out of the fabric, I wanted to see if I can multiples side-by-side. I decided 9 square would be the perfect amount so i can see how one that was completely surrounded would act. For this sample it took a lot more planning. As they are so close together I had to use lots of pieces to be able to have seam allowance. This one took fifteen pieces. It took a long time to put together as it was rather complicated trying to stitch four pieces of fabric together in a cross and stitching the straight pieces of fabric around corners. However troublesome it was, it still worked out really well. I think possibly next time as a new sample I could have the cubes more spaced out so i have to use less pieces of fabric. I was also thinking about varying the heights or sizes of the squares. The multiple cube sample is really good when on a shaped surface as the mold really nicely to it by spraying out the cubes in any direction.

Notched Tucks and Fold Samples

During some time around my work experience I managed to find a couple of hours to think about my creative samples. I revisited some of the previous techniques I had done before. I considered my paper to fabric folds I did in my last project and attempted to redo it to spark some ideas. I was thinking about the lines of tuck I could do, that still relates to my linear imagery for this project. I wanted to retry it but instead putting in notches within the tucks to form shapes in the lines of folds. Putting in small triangle and long trapezoid notches that matched up to form triangles that together look like diagonal diamond pattern. However the quality of the tucks is some what lacking, a problem I've always found when making notched tucks. It's a process I'd not want to be using on my clothing.

Pattern Drafting: Attempt 5

This week I have been focusing on my final attempt of pattern drafting before I focus more into creative samples. For this I wanted to carry on from my last sample of a lined bodice with the addition of a skirt and to attempt my first application of a zip. I used the same pattern for the bodice but had to draw out a new pattern block for the skirt. I had to adjust the pattern by combining two darts on the back into one and moving the darts to be inline with the darts on the bodice and adjusted the lengths of the waist on the front and back to also make the side seams line up. Once I had the pattern drafted up all I need to do was to use the pieces to see if the matched up nicely and that it wasn't all out of proportion. I had some difficulty putting in the zip as I found stitching it on really difficult on the sewing machine. I think next time I will try to use a zipper foot. Making a dress meant I didn't have to attach the lining to the bottom of the item and hemmed them separately. For my very first attempt at a dress including a zip I think it worked out pretty successfully. My only thought is on the length and style of the skirt but I will leave all of that to the future designing and to now focus on my creative ideas to apply to this base.

Formative Assessment

During my formative assessment I had to present what work I have done so far in a group crit. For this module I have focused myself on discovering and learning the skills to pattern draft. I hadn't started any creative samples but I did however have a extensive collection of pattern drafting samples for the bodice and the workings of my dress sample. I knew before any feedback that I should start producing creative samples and not focus too much on the technical samples, I was already planning after my dress pattern draft to stop practicing making clothes and work on my creative ideas. I need to look through my research and the pattern magic books and make samples of form, shaping the fabric in a three-dimensional manner.

Pattern Drafting Bodice (Attempt 4)

After speaking to Nancy about my last attempt apparently I was doing it wrong I'm to finish the edges after the darts which is why I struggled to get it in line. We talked about how I could finish the edges. I was going to try bias tape to roll over the edges but it was suggested that I might prefer lining the garment. With lining I wouldn't have to deal with all the ends of fabric and darts on the inside as it will all be covered by the lining. I looked online for tutorials on how to line a garment. A lining is like a duplicate of the garment in lining fabric that is then stitch right side to right side around the neck and arm holes to stay in place. I looked at tutorial videos to learn how to stitch the shoulder straps, I had to put the one half of the strap into the other to stitch them together. It took longer for me to make the bodice because of all the bits I had to do for the lining. Usually with a dress the lining would hang down and be turned over and over locked, but with this I stitched around the edges like at the neck and arm holes, pulled it through a small hole and hand stitched the rest. In my next attempt I'm going to make a dress, a skirt addition to the bodice pattern I've been using, in order to try to use the lining properly and to try inputting a zip.

Pattern Drafting Bodice (Attempt 3)

I have completed my third attempt of pattern drafting keeping in mind what Nancy had advised me. I rolled over the 1 1/2cm seam allowance twice and stitched them down before stitching the darts and shoulder straps. The edges were flat and there was no puckering of the fabric. However I found rolling the edges first to be difficult to line everything up accurately, especially with the darts. I did some research on garment construction and watched some instructional videos demonstrating the steps to making a garment and I found that finishing the edges was the last job. I will have to revisit Nancy about this and just see what she says as I'm not sure I'm doing it right. I could try rolling it twice after stitching it together. I also found that there were different types of ways of finishing edges and I may have to do some research sampling some to find the best suited for the different parts to my bodice. I did how ever find a way of holding the edges down without pins to stitch them. I pinned the edges and ironed the folds, I then could take the pins out to stitch.