Pattern Drafting: Attempt 5

This week I have been focusing on my final attempt of pattern drafting before I focus more into creative samples. For this I wanted to carry on from my last sample of a lined bodice with the addition of a skirt and to attempt my first application of a zip. I used the same pattern for the bodice but had to draw out a new pattern block for the skirt. I had to adjust the pattern by combining two darts on the back into one and moving the darts to be inline with the darts on the bodice and adjusted the lengths of the waist on the front and back to also make the side seams line up. Once I had the pattern drafted up all I need to do was to use the pieces to see if the matched up nicely and that it wasn't all out of proportion. I had some difficulty putting in the zip as I found stitching it on really difficult on the sewing machine. I think next time I will try to use a zipper foot. Making a dress meant I didn't have to attach the lining to the bottom of the item and hemmed them separately. For my very first attempt at a dress including a zip I think it worked out pretty successfully. My only thought is on the length and style of the skirt but I will leave all of that to the future designing and to now focus on my creative ideas to apply to this base.

Formative Assessment

During my formative assessment I had to present what work I have done so far in a group crit. For this module I have focused myself on discovering and learning the skills to pattern draft. I hadn't started any creative samples but I did however have a extensive collection of pattern drafting samples for the bodice and the workings of my dress sample. I knew before any feedback that I should start producing creative samples and not focus too much on the technical samples, I was already planning after my dress pattern draft to stop practicing making clothes and work on my creative ideas. I need to look through my research and the pattern magic books and make samples of form, shaping the fabric in a three-dimensional manner.

Pattern Drafting Bodice (Attempt 4)

After speaking to Nancy about my last attempt apparently I was doing it wrong I'm to finish the edges after the darts which is why I struggled to get it in line. We talked about how I could finish the edges. I was going to try bias tape to roll over the edges but it was suggested that I might prefer lining the garment. With lining I wouldn't have to deal with all the ends of fabric and darts on the inside as it will all be covered by the lining. I looked online for tutorials on how to line a garment. A lining is like a duplicate of the garment in lining fabric that is then stitch right side to right side around the neck and arm holes to stay in place. I looked at tutorial videos to learn how to stitch the shoulder straps, I had to put the one half of the strap into the other to stitch them together. It took longer for me to make the bodice because of all the bits I had to do for the lining. Usually with a dress the lining would hang down and be turned over and over locked, but with this I stitched around the edges like at the neck and arm holes, pulled it through a small hole and hand stitched the rest. In my next attempt I'm going to make a dress, a skirt addition to the bodice pattern I've been using, in order to try to use the lining properly and to try inputting a zip.

Pattern Drafting Bodice (Attempt 3)

I have completed my third attempt of pattern drafting keeping in mind what Nancy had advised me. I rolled over the 1 1/2cm seam allowance twice and stitched them down before stitching the darts and shoulder straps. The edges were flat and there was no puckering of the fabric. However I found rolling the edges first to be difficult to line everything up accurately, especially with the darts. I did some research on garment construction and watched some instructional videos demonstrating the steps to making a garment and I found that finishing the edges was the last job. I will have to revisit Nancy about this and just see what she says as I'm not sure I'm doing it right. I could try rolling it twice after stitching it together. I also found that there were different types of ways of finishing edges and I may have to do some research sampling some to find the best suited for the different parts to my bodice. I did how ever find a way of holding the edges down without pins to stitch them. I pinned the edges and ironed the folds, I then could take the pins out to stitch.

Pattern Drafting Bodice (Attempt 2)

For this week I have been working on my second attempt of pattern drafting a bodice while rectifying the issues I had previously. My main focus was to make the neck line larger to fit your head through. I was able to calculate the measurements that needed taking off by layering on a mannequin an existing garment of sizes and shape I was happy with over my first attempt. From this I could measure the change in size of the neckline. I found it difficult to change the pattern block making process as the shape and size of the armholes and shoulder straps relied on the starting point of the original neckline. After quick evaluation I realized I could keep everything where it was first and change the neckline after drawing the block.

Also on this test I planned to try a larger seam allowance of 2 cm to help me pin and sew the edges over. I found that the after sewing the edges puckered outwards and it wasn't sitting right. I took this problem to Nancy in college to get some guidance on where I was going wrong. She was able to tell me a lot of what I could have found out from just books. she said that I should be fixing the edges before stitching it together. That the seam allowance should be 1 1/2 cm and i could either over-lock and fold over once or fold over twice. This shall be what I try for my next attempt of pattern drafting. As I need to be using a smaller seam allowance I need to find a different method of hold down the fabric while I'm stitching. On my next attempt I will be trying bondaweb as a glue to hold it.

When stitching the piece together I made sure that all the darts were facing inwards. I did some research of darts in a pattern drafting book and it confirmed my theory that the darts are to face inwards on a garment.
I tried stitching in a zip but once I had the zip in place I found that it was a closed zip and that it finished at the smallest point, making it impossible to fit over the body still. I'm unable to get an open ended zip in 7" I will have to extend my bodice into a dress and have a long zip that goes into the skirt.

Tutorial with James

My tutorial with James today pushed me into sourcing some answers to some problems I;m having. I'm having problems with my pattern drafting with finishing the edges and holding it in place with pins to stitch. James has pointed me in the direction of Nancy in seeking help and reminded me that I could use bondaweb as a glue to hold down the edges while I sew. I shown him my drawings and to continue with these and use them as patterns for material samples and structures, as I was planning on doing. He's also referred me to look a Martin Margiela exhibition at Somerset House.

Designer Research

As recommended I have focused on researching some fashion designers that I feel relates to the interests of my project. I have collected images from designers that show form, fold and lines within their clothing. More images can be found on my Pinterest. I'm planning on looking into these designers' work even more to find more

I have also looked at designers' collections for S/S 14 and it looks promising that whites and pales colours will be a popular trend as well as fabric pleats. I was mostly impressed with Christian Dior's S/S 14 Ready to Wear show as his work shows a lot of form, pleating and white.

Donna Karan                                         Channel     

Yiqing Yin                                           J.W. Anderson

David Koma                                   Christian Dior S/S 14

Repetition of Lines in Architecture

The last couple of weeks I have been working in my sketchbook. I have collected images of architecture and building details that I can see hidden line of repetition. I have used these picture to draw over to pick out the patterns of the line formations. This indicates the beginning of my ideas and where my interests originate.